So you have decided to add a new member to your family? Congratulations! A kitten will grow into a cat with a personality that is very individual and will be a life-long friend. But remember, a kitten is only small for 10 months, and you have up to 20 years with a cat so adopting a kitten is a lifetime story. There are many things to think about before you run out to get your new kitten and the following points should be thought carefully through.
Beverly Elian as jury
A male or a female? They both make wonderful companions, and some people have preferences. I personally do not think it matters providing they are neutered, and neutered early. I recommend that you neuter both males and females at 6 months or earlier for many reasons, one being it is not nearly as stressful on the kitten as it is on an adult cat. Kittens respond very well to early neutering and within a few hours are eating, jumping and playing. A year old cat can take up to 3 days before he feels better enough to eat and wander around. I also recommend six months as a female can go into heat at this time, her temperament changes, she can yell all day and night driving everyone crazy and can develop all types of uterine problems, pyometra is one and it can be lethal. A male can start spraying the house at 6 months, the smell is really bad and sometimes he may never stop spraying. It is a myth that early neutering causes urinary problems in males later, that can happen in both neutered and non-neutered males. Early neutering has proven that you improve your cats’ longevity by eliminating some sex-related cancers also, whether a male or a female.
Having kittens may sound attractive but is very time consuming, expensive with food, litter and vet bills. Then you have to find good homes for the kittens which is not always easy; it is our responsibility as humans not to add to an already over-populated street problem. Cats are instinctive, they do not dream of having babies and “that it is unfair that he/she did not experience this” is nonsense. Cats do not think, and they may be wonderful mothers until her babies are 3 months, but within one day does not recognize her babies any more and does not want them.
Cat proofing the home? Before you take the kitten home think about cat-proofing your home. Balconies are one of the biggest dangers, along with open windows in apartments high up. Fly screen works perfectly to stop your kitten from falling windows, but the balcony may present a few more problems. Windows that tilt open can be extremely dangerous as cats get caught with their head in the angle and strangle to death. When you are not around keep the window closed or open it normally, it is safer. Window blinds with cords dangling are a wonderful toy, but again, the cord can get wound round a cats’ neck; make sure the cord is wound up securely. Look around for small holes, particularly in the bathroom under the bath tub or shower, this is very costly to have to break the bath or shower to get the kitten out. Some kittens chew electrical cables, make sure there is nothing he can be hurt by or do any damage to. Doors and drawers that close by themselves are also dangerous for a young kitten; either wedge it open or keep it closed. The foil from sweet wrappers or Christmas decorations are great fun for a kitten, but many kittens will try and eat it, which of course is not good. Plants can be poisonous, check what is safe before introducing a young kitten in case they decide to try and eat it.
What will the kitten need? You will need for your new kitten a cat carrier with something inside to keep the kitten warm and this will be used through out its’ life for trips to the vet or maybe on holiday with you; a litter box and litter; food and water dishes and some toys. In time you may want to buy something for your kitten to scratch, a scratching post is available for little money in the pet shops.
What food? You will need a premium dry food to keep your kitten healthy and vets or breeders can recommend what to give. The kitten should be fed dry kitten food until about 10 months, and then switched to adult food. The dry food should always be available to your kitten. Adult neutered cats should be fed a premium dry food to avoid urinary problems, please consult your veterinarian for advice when your cat is about 1.5 years.
Kittens should also be given at least once a day canned food, raw chicken with the bone, beef, boiled chicken without the bones or fish (never pork). You will have to discover what your kitten likes. Some form of wet food is very important to the health of your kitten as kittens do not drink a lot of water, and they get fluid from this. Uncooked chicken bones are a very good source of calcium and help the kitten keep his teeth clean. Do not feed from the table, human food is too high in salt for your kitten and could result in kidney damage. Do NOT give your kitten milk!! All cats and kittens are lactose intolerant and in some cats leads to chronic diarrhoea. Natural yoghurt has a different effect, some cats love it, and some do not. Other than very natural cottage cheese, cheese should never be given to your kitten; it is again very high in salt.
Water ? Boiled water or bottled spring water is not good for cats. Boiled water concentrates salts, the same as spring water, and this stresses the kidneys. Filtered water or water straight from the tap must be available all the time, and change the litter frequently. Cats are clean animals and do not like using dirty litter.
Where and what do I look for when selecting a kitten? Whether you obtain a kitten from a registered breeder or a domestic kitten from a home or rescue group, selecting a kitten is always the same. The kitten must be over 3 months, de-wormed and fully vaccinated (ask to see the health book) to protect him, clear eyed and with shiny coats. Kittens any younger than this and not fully vaccinated can get sick very quickly, quite often die, and it will cost a fortune in vet bills and lots of heartache. Kittens not over 3 months are not always fully toilet trained or independently eating either, they have not had the time with their mother to teach them all the good habits!
Choose a kitten with clear eyes and shiny coats, it shows that they are in top condition and have been fed well. Kittens with runny noses, unclear eyes, skin problems or dry coat must be avoided as already they are sick and it will not get any better with the stress of adapting to a new home. If you can, see where they have lived and who Mom-cat is, it is never a good idea to take from market places, people delivering kittens at train stations or from pet shops, you have no idea where they have come from and how they have been cared for. It does not matter how sorry for them you may feel, you will be even sorrier after a huge vet bill and lots of hard work to try and make the kitten well.
Ask the person where you get your kitten from for a recommendation of a vet if you do not already have one. The vet must be someone you can relate to, be able to ask questions and discuss any future problems you may have. If you have taken a kitten from a home, rescue group or registered breeder, that person will also be a support for you.
Settling in the kitten at home? The very first thing is to show him where his litter box is, then his food and water. Kittens are very curious and your kitten will spend time exploring his new home and very quickly find a place where he likes to sleep. Settling in kittens where there are other animals will follow in another issue.
And then? Once he is a full grown cat he must be vaccinated yearly and de-wormed as recommended by your vet. From March to October he must be given something against fleas and ticks even if he lives indoors, we carry fleas in with our shoes. If you ever have any doubts on your cats’ health or his behaviour changes which can indicate he is not well contact your vet as soon as possible. It is far easier to treat a sickness in an early stage than when the cat is seriously ill.
Courtesy Beverly Elian you can find at
http://www.ragdoll.ro
